I’ve been meaning to devote more attention to Bandol in the Mourvèdre Monday series. Bandol, after all, is the only appellation in France where Mourvèdre is the top dog grape (it must be a minimum of 50% of the blend).
So I was very excited when I was recently followed on Twitter by @BandolWines and subsequently discovered that they’re a Bandol importer based in nearby Houston. Soon after we connected via Twitter, I got the chance to meet Amine Matta, who was pouring three wines from Domain La Suffrene at the Austin Wine Merchant: a fresh, crisp appley white (from Clairette and Ugni Blanc), a nice minerally rosé and the red reviewed below. (Tasting notes based on a full bottle I purchased and drank later.) I’m looking forward to tasting through the as much of their portfolio as I can eventually!
Domaine La Suffrène 2005 Bandol
Producer: Domaine La Suffrène
Grapes: 55% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 10% old-vine Carignan
Appellation: Bandol (AOC, France)
Vineyards: “sandy-silt-laden, calcareous and clay” soils
Vintage: 2005
Winemaking: 18 months in oak (% new unknown)
Alcohol: I failed to note it.
Price: I paid around $30 at Austin Wine Merchant
Tasting notes: On the nose, there is a spicy, black pepper layer on top of the red fruit (berries and maybe some plum). A definite whiff of horse stable on the nose, but a nice clean horse stable, like the ones with the clydesdales at Busch Gardens and SeaWorld. On the palate, it has good dark fruit, but it’s strength for me is in its leathery, savory, earthy qualities. A wine for contemplation, not quaffing.
Overall impression: A real winner for me. B+
Free association: I picture Dumbledore drinking this in his office after a long day battling office politics at Hogwarts.