Have you head of the new “Locations” project from Dave Phinney (of Orin Swift)? I hadn’t until recently. He’s sourcing the wine from sites across France and blending them together:

2011 is the first vintage of our French red wine sourced from some of the finest locations throughout France. Grenache from the Roussillon, Syrah from the Rhone, and assorted Bordeaux varietals are sensibly blended in an original style that showcases the best of what this historic land has to offer. During months of travel throughout storied growing appellations, winemaker Dave Phinney was able to secure prized vineyard sites to realize his objective. Utilizing a carte blanche approach and forgoing tradition, a powerful and balanced wine emerged that justly pays homage to the country of France.

In addition to this Franc-enstein bottling, he’s done one from Spain (Spain-kenstein?) that blends across Priorat, Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Another from Italy is in the works.

This offends my sensibilities on several levels.

That said, I got a chance to taste the French version and I actually kind of enjoyed what was in the glass. Go ahead and call me a snob, but just because it tastes good, doesn’t mean I have to like it.