Category Archives: Commentary

#TeamMourvedre’s New Mascot

I was very happy to receive this little monster in the mail last week. I think #TeamMourvedre may have itself a new unofficial mascot, courtesy of Bonny Doon Vineyard.

I think he/she needs a name.

Morris?

Maurice?

Morty?

Èd? (avec accent grave, bien sûr)

Feel free to offer your own suggestions.

You may recognize the little guy/gal/beast from the label on this bottle, previously reviewed. As I said then:

I want this on a t-shirt.

(Is anyone in Santa Cruz listening?)

The bottle itself is a half-bottle of Bonny Doon 2010 Mourvèdre “Mon Doux” — a dessert wine (“my sweet”) from old-vine Contra Costa County mourvèdre.

I’m very glad I added this to my club shipment, and can’t wait to see what this little beast has in store.

10 Most Ridiculous Pairings in Wine & Spirits August 2011

I really enjoy Wine & Spirits magazine. I’m a subscriber. Of the major wine publications in the US, it’s the one I end up spending the most time with. I like it because it stays focused on the wine, not the wine (insert air quotes) lifestyle.

But the one thing that always makes me laugh are the food pairing notes in the individual wine reviews at the back of the magazine.

I classify them into 4 main categories:

  • The Impossibly Specific
  • The Hopelessly Obscure
  • The Practically-a-Recipe
  • The Day-Planner

While I call them ridiculous (and they are), I have to admit they’re kind of fun. I look forward to reading them in a can-you-believe-this kind of way. And they are evocative even if they aren’t terribly useful.

Having said that, below are the 10 most ridiculous examples from the most recent issue, August 2011:

The Impossibly Specific

“…would match well with steamed asparagus – or the fried clam and pickled strawberry sandwich at No. 7 Sub in NYC.”
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Côtes du Rhône Parallèle 45

“For the parmesan-crusted chicken at Jean-Georges in New York.”
Fantinel 2009 Collio Vigneti Sant’Helena Pinot Grigio

“It will come in handy for early fall dinners of roasted eggplant and the season’s last stuffed tomatoes.”
Vaeni 2006 Naoussa

The Hopelessly Obscure (so obscure, it has to be italicized)

“Decant a bottle for pasta wth rabbit squazet.”
Gravner 2004 Venezia Giulia Breg Anfora

“Then decant it for bavette.”
Wind Gap 2008 Sonoma Coast Syrah

The Practically-a-Recipe

“A rosé for a chicken fricassee with button mushrooms, cream and plenty of herbs.”
Domaine de l’Hermitage 2010 Bandol L’Oratoire

“Check it out this winter with a rabbit stewed with cinnamon and tomatoes.”
Vaeni NV Makedonikos Semi-Dry

“For spit-roasted pigeon seasoned with juniper and bay.”
La Castellada 2004 Collio Sauvignon

The Day-Planner

“…like the soppressata it might accompany on a picnic in Muir Woods.”
Failla 2009 Sonoma Coast Pearlessence Vineyard Pinot Noir

“Chill it for an evening by the lake, with fresh-caught perch on the grill.”
Henry of Pelham 2009 Niagara-on-the-Lake Chardonnay Musqué

 

Keep ’em coming, Wine & Spirits! Perhaps one day I’ll have the pleasure of reading in your pages the perfect wine pairing for human breast milk cheese (eaten whilst strolling around Piazza Navona, of course).

Food & Wine Festival Coming to Austin

I was excited to read this news at austin360.com today:

Food & Wine magazine and the company behind the Austin City Limits Music Festival will produce the first Austin Food & Wine Festival in March 2012, organizers announced Tuesday.

The magazine, which has about 1 million subscribers, has been hosting the Aspen Food and Wine Classic in Colorado for almost 30 years, and it is involved with more than a dozen other events around the country, including food festivals in South Beach, Fla.; Los Angeles; New York; and Atlanta . The new festival, slated for March 30-April 1, will absorb the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival, which ends its 26-year run.

My wife and I have always wanted to go to the Aspen Food & Wine Classic. It’ll be great to have a similar event here in Austin. And it sounds like they’ll pull in some heavy-hitters.

Grdovic said the Austin festival will be similar to the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, the February soiree in which many of the biggest celebrity chefs in the country and their legions of followers descend upon Miami for events such as a tasting village on the beach that is three blocks long.

“It is like the mosh pit at Lollapalooza,” said Tampa Tribune food writer Jeff Houck . “South Beach has become the template by which other festivals have been born and compared to,” he said.

Along with the magazine and C3, the new festival is a collaboration with chefs Tyson Cole of Austin and Tim Love of Fort Worth and Austin restaurateur Jesse Herman of La Condesa and Malverde.

“Knowing the kind of powerhouse that Food & Wine magazine can bring to Austin, that was one of the huge incentives for us to do this,” said Cathy Cochran-Lewis, president of the Hill Country festival.

See you there in 2012!

via @DeniseFraser

The Wine Bottle in the Window

Are you familiar with the View From Your Window contests at Andrew Sullivan’s The Dish blog? In short, readers send in pics from their windows and Sullivan makes a contest out of some of them, where readers are asked to identify the location of the photo, with as much specificity as possible. I never attempt to win these contests, because nearly always the winner spends hours Google Street View-ing the thing and is able to name the city, street, building, what floor the window is on and often has a story about how they honeymooned right around the corner from there 15 years ago.

What’s that got to do with wine? Nothing really. But in a recent contest a reader submitted an interesting answer based on a glimpse of a wine bottle in the photo:

The one fat obvious clue makes this one easy.

Wine bottles of that particular olive shade are the product of Baltic Sea sand and, since the late 15th century, are mostly manufactured on the peninsula west of Riga. Ah, but that’s a misdirection, because while they’re made in Latvia, they’re almost all exported through Stockholm, even today, due to lingering effects of the short-lived trade embargo of 1962 (look it up).

As everyone knows, however, Swedish wine sucks, so we’re looking for a secondary market, and that means Hungary. Now for the second clue: Who leaves a full bottle of wine on a window sill? Answer: Forgetful old people like my parents, and young folks, who are careless about alcohol. Well, my parents still can’t attach a digital photo to an email and would forget to send it anyway, so it must be a student, probably male, probably unshaven, probably with a sink full of dishes just outside the frame.

But that doesn’t narrow it down much, so here’s where I get strategic. I bet most of the entries are going to say Budapest, home of Moholy-Nagy University, or maybe Gyor, where they sell cheap Tokajis from vending machines in the student center. So I’m going to hedge and go with the leading destination for Magyar exchange students and say Bratislava, Slovakia.

My first ever VFYW entry, and I’m pretty sure I nailed it. Can’t wait to read the crazy guesses of my competitors!

That’s an awful lot to read into the color of that bottle don’t you think? The bottle color even doesn’t look that unusual to me. And it turns out the reader was completely wrong (the correct answer was near Oystermouth Castle, in Mumbles, Wales). But points for the Sherlock Holmesian attempt.