Vineyards: The grapes are sourced from vineyards averaging 90 years old.
Winemaking/Aging: There is no indication of the oak treatment on the label or the winery’s website.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: I paid $14 at Central Market in Austin
My tasting notes: Whoa – the color on this is very light. It looks like a White Zinfandel that skipped a few showers. I literally could read the newspaper through it (trust me, I actually did it). Hmm, I’m worried. The nose has a nice raspberry creme note, but there’s a lot of sweetness coming through and a bit of the alcohol. On the palate, I get red fruit and even some overripe peach, wrapped in vanilla creaminess, but I find it soft and flabby and in need of some acid or tannic backbone. Definitely some residual sugar, too.
Overall assessment: Different strokes for different folks. This wine is not for me. D+
Free association: Seems like it would be a winner on a bachelorette party wine tour bus.
This is Part 3 of my Lodi Old Vines Zin series. Part 1 was the Spellbound 2005 and Part 2 was the (great value!) Ravenswood 2006. I have a few more bottles to try out so check back or subscribe to the RSS feed. If you have some Lodi OVZ favorites, leave a comment.
Gnarley Head Old Vines Zinfandel 2006 Lodi
Producer: Gnarly Head
Grapes: Zinfandel (neither the label nor the website says whether it’s 100% or a blend)
Appellation: Lodi
Vineyards: 35-80 year old head-pruned vines in sandy soils.
Winemaking/Aging: Aged in not one, not two, but three types of oak: French, American and Hungarian. Neither the label nor the website says exactly how long it spends in oak or the % new.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: About $10-12
My tasting notes: Dusty dark fruit on the nose with lots of black pepper and a hint of green pepper. On the palate, I get spiced berries and plum. The flavors are rich, but it quickly starts to feel a bit light/hollow. The finish is short and a bit hot.
Overall assessment: The flavor profile is fine, but the wine lacks the depth or intensity that I expect from old vines Zin. It’s pleasant, but not memorable. C
Free association: Lightweight and disappears quickly … like the Spin Doctors. (click for video)
This is Part 2 of my Lodi Old Vines Zin series. Part 1 was the Spellbound 2005.
I’ve always had a soft spot for Ravenswood. Vintner’s Blend was one of my favorites when I was first getting into wine and their No Wimpy Wines slogan was appealing to that early-20s guy still making the transition from of kegs of Natty Light from his college days (or if we were splurging, Killian’s). Now that I’m more “sophisticated”, I still dig Zin, but I appreciate Ravenswood’s broad range of “County Series” and “Vineyard Designates” wines. So I have high hopes for this bottle, from the County Series.
Ravenswood Old Vines Zinfandel 2006 Lodi
Producer: Ravenswood
Grapes: 78% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 1% Carignane (this just barely qualifies for being labeled a Zinfandel; minimum is 75%)
Appellation: Lodi
Vineyards: Old vines in sandy soil. (Neither the label nor the website indicates just how old the vines are.)
Winemaking/Aging: Fermented with native yeasts in open fermenters, hand-punched. 18 months in 100% French oak, 25 – 30% of which was new.
Alcohol: 14.8% (ahem)
Price: About $11-12
Package: I’ve always liked the Ravenswood logo and relatively simple labeling with the appellation clearly shown.
My tasting notes: Deep color. Mixed berries, especially blueberries, on the nose, with pretty strong alcohol coming through along with some oak. On the palate, it’s a rich, plush wine with sweet plum, spice, and an slight funky earthiness that is very appealing. It finishes dry and spicy with some tannic grip and good length, though a bit hot.
Overall assessment: Overall, I think this is a dynamite wine for the price. Feels like the old vines squeezed out some of their essence for this wine. It feels … serious. B+
Free association: Something about this wine reminded me of the sadness of many of Patty Griffin’s songs. Top of the World is one of my favorites. (If you only know the Dixie Chicks version of this song and/or you’re not familiar with Patty Griffin, you’re in for a treat. A sad treat, but a treat nonetheless.)
More info:
Another Wine Blog tasted this wine single-blind and declared it a great value.
I enjoyed doing the Unoaked Chardonnay series last week so I decided to do another series. And after a week of nothing but white wine (which is very unusual for me), I decided to go to my sweet spot: Old Vines Zin. I kept it in the everyday price range ($10-15 for me) and picked a single appellation – Lodi – to focus on, hoping I’ll learn a bit more about it along the way. Maybe after I do 3 or 4 from Lodi, I’ll do 3 or 4 from another AVA (Paso Robles?) for a little compare/contrast.
Winemaking/Aging: Stainless steel fermentation. Aged in 50% French and 50% American oak (no indication of length of aging).
Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: I paid $15
Package: Synthetic cork closure. Kinda cool-looking bottle. The black & white label with the shadowy moon is pretty evocative. Just right for a Halloween party or your next coven meeting.
My tasting notes: Color is a bit lighter than most Zins in my experience. But the nose doesn’t hold back. I leaned in for my first sniff, planning to park my nose deep in the glass, and I literally stopped and jerked back. It positively reeked of candy and berry juice. So sweet-smelling! It mellowed a bit later, but the overall impression is of raspberry jam spread on the backside of a strip of leather or a plank of wood. On the palate, it stays in that intense, sweet, candied berry range with a little floral quality. Imagine Hawaiian Punch steeped in a handful of potpourri. (Anyone remember the store called World Bazaar that used to be in all the malls back in the 80s? You needed a gas mask to survive a trip in there with your mom.) It’s a medium-bodied wine, with a moderately long finish that leaves an impression mainly of oak.
Overall assessment: I’ll admit to having a positive bias toward old vines Zin — it’s the style of wine I want to like the most. But this one falls short for me. It doesn’t bring complexity so much as intensity in a very candied fruit way. I could see some people really liking the intense fruit — the flavors are very bright and clean. But I think it needs some darkness (mocha, earth, meatiness) to match the label and to make it feel more … serious. C+
Four Vines Naked Chardonnay 2008 Santa Barbara County
I originally intended this to be a 2 bottle series — just pick up two readily available unoaked Chardonnay’s and do a little compare and contrast. I was a bit disappointed with both bottles so I decided to extend the series. I stopped by Whole Foods (the flagship location at Austin HQ) and grabbed two more.
Producer: Four Vines
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Appellation: Santa Barbara County – one of the southernmost regions in California yet one of the coolest.
Vineyards: (from the winery) “Fruit is harvested from three south facing hilltop vineyards in the Cat Canyon in Northern Santa Barbara: Los Alamos, Loma Verde and El Camino.” Cat Canyon is in the unofficial sub-AVA of Los Alamos Valley. Info on Los Alamos Valley here and here.
Winemaking: Stainless steel fermentation, no MLF (malolactic fermentation), some aging on the lees.
Alcohol: 13.9%
Price: $13
Package: Screwtop closure. Label is a bit dull, they certainly could have done more with the Naked concept that they seem to have trademarked. Oh wait… if you look closely at the vines on the label and unfocus like you’re looking at one of those Magic Eye books you can see they they were drawn to look like four dancing naked women. A little too subtle, guys.
My tasting notes: Now we’re talking! Bright green apple aromas leap from the glass, with a hint of allspice maybe. More green apples on the palate, with a little pineapple juice. This is what I was expecting from these unoaked Chards: bright clean fruit, crisp and refreshing, while still rounder and more voluptuous than Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, etc. Nice. I think the cooler climate of Santa Barbara, and Los Alamos/Cat Canyon in particular, makes a big difference.
Overall assessment: A bit one-note perhaps, but delicious. Would be great for a party, Naked® or otherwise. B
This is Part 2 of my Unoaked Chardonnay face-off: Toad Hollow Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Francine’s Selection (Part 1 was the Clos LaChance Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Monterey County.)
I didn’t know this before I starting researching this post, but Toad Hollow is one of the pioneers of unoaked Chardonnay in the US, their first vintage being 1993. So I’m glad I picked this one up; it should serve as a good benchmark. The only caveat is that they employ malolactic fermentation (MLF) while the Clos LaChance does not.
Producer: Toad Hollow
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Appellation: Mendocino County (AVA, California)
Vineyards: 90% Mendocino County and 10% from Sonoma County
Winemaking: No oak aging (9 months in stainless steel tanks), but it does get 100% MLF and 8 months on the lees.
Alcohol: 13.9%
Price: About $12
My tasting notes: A bit more golden than the Clos LaChance, but less so than most Chards. It’s a little tight on the nose – once it warms up a bit I get melon, a bit of tangerine and a sort of plastery aroma. More melon on the palate with a pleasantly rich/viscous/oily mouthfeel from the MLF. I wouldn’t describe it as crisp, though it’s not flabby either. Lingering finish, but the flavor you’re left with is a little odd, actually. (I don’t get the same spice notes I got from the Clos LaChance, which were confusing me.)
Overall assessment: I really went back and forth on this one. Compared to the Clos LaChance, it is not as expressive of fruit, but it is perhaps more interesting overall. I still didn’t get the crisp green apple zing I was expecting this unoaked Chardonnay experiment to produce. In the end this is a pleasant and interesting wine, but the aftertaste is a bit off-putting, which keeps this from scoring better. C (I certainly wouldn’t go this far.)
Free association: “Lost in our convictions, lips stained with wine / As the sun sank west of the Mendocino county line” – Mendocino County Line by Willie Nelson/Lee Ann Womack. (YouTube video here)
Unoaked Chardonnay Summary: I may have to extend this little series. These two left me disappointed. I think there are steelier, crisper, zingier examples out there that might appeal to my palate more. Perhaps you need to move up the price ladder to find good ones. After all, without the buttery/oaky “makeup”, the quality of the fruit is all the more important. If you have any recommendations, please leave a comment.
This is Part 1 of a series of posts on Unoaked Chardonnay. (Part 2 — the Toad Hollow 2007 Mendocino County — is here)
Unoaked is the way the cool kids are drinking Chardonnay these days. I decided I’d pick up two widely available bottles this week and compare and contrast them. The first one I opened was the Clos LaChance Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Monterey County.
Actually, the full name of this wine is: Clos LaChance Glittering-Throated Emerald Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Monterey County (that’s quite a mouthful!). The folks at Clos LaChance have a thing for the hummingbird “due to its territorial nature and ability to chase away the grape-eating birds from the vineyards.” So they have a series of wines called The Hummingbird Series each named after a type of hummingbird they think reflects the wine in some way. I kinda like this idea except that you end up with some pretty awkward wine names: Clos LaChance White-Tufted Sunbeam Sauvignon Blanc, Clos LaChance Pink-Throated Brilliant Rosé, Clos LaChance Crimson Topaz Meritage.
Back to the wine…
Producer: Clos LaChance
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Appellation: Monterey County (AVA, California) (map)
Vineyards: 50% from the Riverview Vineyard near Soledad in the cooler northern half of the Salinas Valley. 50% from the San Lucas Vineyard (in the San Lucas AVA sub-appellation) in the warmer southern end of the valley. These are not estate vineyards, they are owned by Scheid Vineyards.
Winemaking: Stainless fermentation, no malolactic fermentation (MLF) and no oak aging.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: Around $10
My tasting notes: Color is a bit less golden than most (oaked) chards, more like a pilsner. On the nose, I note pineapple and pear and a spiciness I would normally associate with oak. Hmm… has my brain permanently linked chardonnay with oak to the point that I can’t disassociate the two? In the mouth, I get more spiced apple/pear and pineapple and a prickly/raw mouthfeel that (again) I would normally attribute to oak treatment. It certainly doesn’t have the buttery quality of oaky/MLF chards, though. Still, I’m starting to question my assumptions about what oak does and doesn’t contribute to a wine. I will need to compare to the other unoaked chard I picked up and see if I’m just imagining things.
Overall assessment: When I think unoaked Chardonnay, I expect crisp apples. I got apples, but not enough crispness for my palate. If you’re not going to give me crispness, seduce me with richness — but to be fair, that’s not the goal of this unoaked Chard either. Ultimately, I’d say this is a serviceable white. Certainly not a bad wine, but not something I’d seek out, and (unless my palate was just playing tricks on me) not a great representation of unoaked Chardonnay. C
Free association: Not what I expected…
So what do you think? Have you ever had this experience with an unoaked Chardonnay? Are spice notes a common characteristic of Chardonnay sans oak? Am I crazy? Leave a comment and let me know.
I’ve opened several bottles from Cline recently and I was in the mood for this Mourvèdre. Cline is one of the few Cali producers that focuses on this grape and they’ve got some historic old vines to work with.
Producer: Cline Cellars
Grapes: Mourvèdre (100%, I think … but it’s not stated on the label or tech sheet)
Appellation: Contra Costa County
Vineyards: While Contra Costa County is generally very hot, the vineyard site for this (and other Cline wines from the appellation) are cooled at night by the adjacent San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers.
Aging: 10 months in American oak (25% new), dark toast, before being transfered to neutral barrels.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Price: I don’t recall what I paid for through the club, but these usually retail around $15.
My tasting notes: Candy on the nose, plus mint and maybe tobacco. More candied fruit on the palate. Like if Now & Later made a flavor called “chocolate-covered sugarplum.”
Assessment/score: The old-vine intensity manifests in a very candied way which is a bit “too much.” I don’t recall this in past vintages of this wine. For me, this is a C+ tonight. I’d drink it again (it may mellow with more time in bottle), but if I were buying, I’d look for other vintages. I’ll look forward to trying the ’06 or ’07.
Maybe because I had just posted about the Bonny Doon Mourvedre, I picked up this bottle on a recent replenish-the-stock-of-everyday-wine trip to the wine shop. I don’t drink much of the pink stuff, generally. It has a top-of-mind awareness problem with me. I just don’t think about it very often. When I go to the wine shop or grab a few bottles at the grocery store, I tend to think of value reds from Spain or Portugal or the Rhone, Argentine Malbec, Sonoma Zins. Or whites like New Zealand SBs, Albarino, Vinho Verde, various Alsace whites. Rosé as a category just doesn’t cross my mind.
I opened this one for one of our “grazing dinners” as my wife like to call them: prosciutto and melon, caprese salad, olives, some cheese, etc. Let’s see how it did.
Appellation: California (though it’s hard to tell from the label — it just says “Pink Wine of the Earth”)
Vineyards: unknown
Aging: unknown
Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: I don’t remember exactly what I paid, but it’s in the $12-14 range.
My tasting notes: Beautiful color. Strawberries and a distinct balloon aroma on the nose. On the palate, it has nice fruit leaning toward strawberry and cherry and possibly peach. Hints of earth and herbs. There is a really great texture to this wine; good weight. Am I imagining a little bit of an oily quality? Finishes dry and delicious.
Assessment/grade: I really like this. Beautiful color, nice aromatics, great mouthfeel and flavor. What’s not to like? Why don’t I drink this more often? B
Free association:
More details on Bonny Doon’s sell sheet for this wine here.
Mourvèdre has been a favorite of mine for a long time, probably due to my early attachment to Cline Cellars (see previous posts), one of the few California wineries to focus on the varietal. I liked (and still like) its ability to produce dark, brooding fruit flavors with an Old World earthiness. Nice write-up on the grape here.
Bonny Doon Vineyards is a wine geek’s dream. Not only do they champion “ugly duckling” varietals and innovative techniques (biodynamics, screwcaps, putting grapes in a freezer to make ice-wine), but “president-for-life”/winemaker Randall Grahm is as interesting as they come. Cleverness coats everything they do, from the wine labels to the names of the wines to the winemaker’s notes (which will send you to Google to try to understand all the literary/philosophical/scientific references). I used to belong to their DEWN (Distinct Esoteric Wine Network) wine club, which they use for their most experimental efforts. In the 2 years or so that I was a member, I received a grenache blanc, a grignolino d’Asti, a spumante of erbaluce, a barbera/arneis, dolcetto, cinsault, chenin blanc, cab franc, barbera, an angelica and more. Good geeky fun and some very tasty wine.
Producer: Bonny Doon Vineyards (for its DEWN wine club)
Grapes: 100% Mourvèdre
Appellation: Contra Costa County (AVA, California)
Vineyards: old vines in the Sacramento River Delta region
Aging: unknown
Alcohol: 14.2%
Price: Not sure. Part of my DEWN club shipment in Feb. 2005 … probably $20-25
My tasting notes: Dark purple color, but not opaque. Roasted fruit and meaty/animal aromas on the nose. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied with red and black fruit flavors framed with earth and mineral characteristics. Good acidity and a lengthy finish. This wine rewards contemplation, and I’m enjoying it more and more with each taste.
Assessment/grade: This wine has lots of interesting earthy/mineral/meaty notes while retaining an appealing fruit character. That makes it a winner for me. B+/A-